浪凡的阿尔伯·艾尔巴茨,避开新科技

From another in the video series on designers in their offices, Alber Elbaz, the creative director of Lanvin since 2001, explains the difference having an office makes in his working life and what he keeps in the closets in that Paris office. (The conversation has been edited and condensed.)

在设计师办公室系列视频的另一集里，阿尔伯·艾尔巴茨(Alber Elbaz)讲述了拥有一间办公室给他的工作生活带来的变化，以及他巴黎办公室的壁橱里放的东西，他是从2001年起担任浪凡(Lanvin)创意总监的（下面的对话经过编辑和浓缩）。

Q. How long have you been in this office?

问：你在这间办公室工作多久了？

A. I've been in this office for a year, and at Lanvin for 12 years. But in our last building, I gave my office to my assistant.

答：我在这里一年了，我在浪凡12年了。但是在我们的上一个办公楼里，我把我的办公室给了助手。

Q. Why did you decide to have an office now?

问：你为什么现在决定拥有一间办公室呢？

Well, when I started working with an architect on this building, I thought that I would take one window and one table. And all of a sudden it occurred to me, Why not? So I decided to have two tables and two windows and a little sofa, and only like this kind of dark, dark, dark brown, or dark gray, or dark black or light black — I don't know, I didn't define the color — walls, and it feels very good. I feel very loved in this office. The only thing I brought is that photograph that I found in Tel Aviv. It's of an authentic Orthodox wedding.

答：呃，我和一名建筑师开始设计这座大楼时，本来只想要一个窗户和一张桌子。我突然想，为什么不要一间办公室呢？所以我决定要两张桌子、两个窗户和一张小沙发，就要这种深棕、或者深灰、深黑或者浅黑色的墙——我不知道，我当时没有确定颜色——它感觉非常好。我在这间办公室里能感受到爱。我只带来了一样东西——我在特拉维夫找到的那张照片。它是真正的东正教婚礼。

Q. Why that picture?

问：为什么带那张照片？

Many years ago when I became the designer at Yves Saint Laurent, I called my mom and I told her. And she said, "Oh." And I said, "Aren't you happy?" And she said, "There is only one thing that will make me happy, and that is for you to get married." So I bought this picture of the wedding and the bride, and the bride looks so miserable that every day I look at it when I come in and say, "Thank God I didn't get married."

答：很多年前我成为伊夫·圣洛朗(Yves Saint Laurent)的设计师时，我打电话告诉妈妈这件事。她说：“哦。”我说，“你不高兴吗？”她说，“只有一件事会让我高兴，那就是你结婚。”所以我买下这张婚礼和新娘的照片，那位新娘看起来非常痛苦，每天我走进来看见它就心想：“上帝保佑，幸好我没结婚。”

Q. So what do you do in your office?

问：你在办公室里做什么？

First of all, I put my bag down. I think it's very important to have a place to start the day and a place to put your bag.

答：首先，我把包放下。我觉得有个地方开始一天的工作，有个地方放包很重要。

Q. Where do you put your bag?

问：你把包放哪儿？

Never on the floor, because I'm superstitious. I was told that if we put money on the floor we lose money. I like to spend money, but I don't like to lose money. So I'm trying it on the little bench just here in the back.

答：从不放地上，因为我迷信。据说要是把钱放地上，就会破财。我喜欢花钱，但我不喜欢丢钱。所以我把它放在后面的小工作台上。

Q. What else happens here?

问：你在这里还做什么事？

I interview people here. I have my lunches here. I leave my team to have their moment, and I have my moment. I need that moment of isolation, because when we sit around I'm always expected to give all the answers, but I don't always have all the answers.

答：我在这里面试别人。我在这里吃午饭。我离开团队让他们拥有私人时间，让我也拥有私人时间。我需要那样的独处时光，因为我们在一起时，他们总是期待我给出所有的答案，但我并不总能回答所有的问题。

This is also a place where I meet people from the company when they need to tell me that they are leaving, or ask for a raise. This is my home here. I start like at 9, 9:15 in the morning. And I leave at 10, 11 o'clock at night. Even though during the week I'm in this room maybe in the morning for only like five minutes, and lunch 15, and maybe the end of the day if I have someone to see, another 15.

我还在这里会见公司里的人，比如他们需要告诉我，他们要辞职或者要求加薪的时候。这里是我的家。我早上9点或9点15分到这里，晚上10点或11点离开。尽管也许我只是早上在这里待五分钟，午餐在这里待15分钟，也许在一天的结尾需要见什么人时再待15分钟。

Q. Where are you the rest of the time?

问：其他时间你在哪里？

We have the two areas where we work: one in front of the mirror, and one area a dining table of Jeanne Lanvin. I saw that table in the boutique one day many years ago, and there were some ties on it, and I said, "Can I have this table?" I feel always that I work more in the kitchen than in the living room or in the showroom anyway, so I thought, How symbolic, I'm working on her kitchen table.

答：我们有两个工作区域：一个在镜子前面，一个在珍妮·浪凡(Jeanne Lanvin)的餐桌边。很多年前有一天我在精品店里看到那张桌子，它上面放着一些领带，我说：“可以把这张桌子给我吗？”我一直觉得我在厨房工作的时间比在客厅或展厅多，所以我心想，这多有象征意义啊，我在她的餐桌上工作。

With the mirror, I look with my eyes and I look with the mirror, and the mirror most of the times tell me different things than my eyes. So, who do I listen to? Who do I trust? Then I look at the photos of the clothes on the body. Then the mirror is no longer needed, but again the screen tells me different stories. So I have my eye, the mirror and the screen. And I realize more and more that what looks good on the screen never feels good on the body.

我用眼睛看，也透过镜子看，大部分时候，透过镜子看到的跟用眼睛直接看到的不一样。所以，我该听谁的？我该信任谁？然后我再看衣服穿在模特身上的照片。然后似乎不再需要镜子了，但我透过屏幕看到的又是不同的效果。所以，我用眼睛看，透过镜子看，透过屏幕看。我越来越意识到在屏幕上看起来效果很好的衣服穿在身上永远都不好看。

Q. Where did you find your desk?

问：你的书桌是哪儿来的？

It's another table that Jeanne Lanvin used to use, and we just lacquered it and repaired it, and I put a glass top to protect it because I always use colors and papers, and I eat here, so sometimes things spill all over.

答：它也是珍妮·浪凡用过的餐桌，我们就给它涂上漆，修理了一下，我给它加了一层玻璃桌面来保护它，因为我总是使用颜料和纸张，而且我在这儿吃饭，所以有时东西会洒得哪儿都是。

Q. And do you work on the computer?

问：你用电脑工作吗？

No. This is when they show me pictures. I don't tweet, and I don't Instagram, and I don't have an email address, and I don't drive. I bought a phone once because it looked so high-tech, but the only thing I do with it is the green button and the red button. I don't know how to use the rest of it.

答：不用。这是供他们给我看图片时用的。我不发Tweet，不用Instagram，没有电子邮箱，不开车。我买过一个手机，因为它看起来非常高科技，但我只用它接打电话，其他功能都不会用。

Q. Is that why you have a pile of paper next to the computer?

问：所以你的电脑旁边有一堆纸？

These are my cards. I write notes to people and things that I have to do and things I have done. Every day I start with my to-do list: who do I have to call, who do I have to speak with, what do I have to say, what do I have to check? I do that, and I cross it off through the day.

答：这些是我的卡片。我给别人写便条，写我必须去做的事情和已经做完的事情。我每天从任务清单开始：必须给谁打电话，必须跟谁面谈，必须说什么，必须检查什么。我做完一件，就划掉一件。

Q. Do you have a special pen or a pencil?

问：你有特殊的钢笔或铅笔吗？

Markers usually. Markers, pencils, colors, whatever I find around, though I'm not one of those that needs to have a specific paper, specific pencil held at a specific angle. It's not important.

答：通常是记号笔。记号笔、铅笔、彩笔，我随手找到的任何东西，我不是那种需要特定纸张、特定铅笔、以特定角度握笔的人。那不重要。

When I start a collection, I always have a little book. It's not anything fancy or anything specific or fetishistic. This is where I do all my writing and do all my sketches — sometimes at 3 in the morning when I cannot sleep anymore, worrying that this is not going to be a good show, and what will I do, and I don't know what to do. I sketch and resketch.

我开始一个系列时，总会拿一个小本子。它不是什么高档、特殊或迷信的东西。我就是在它上面写字、画草图，有时是在凌晨3点我睡不着觉的时候，比如担心这次时装秀不够好或者为不知道该做什么而忧虑的时候。我画了又画。

Q. What's in the closets?

问：壁橱里有什么？

Everything I don't want to see: papers, chocolate — 100 percent cacao without any sugar — candles, maybe old sketches I'll find here and there, photos, carpets, a yoga mattress. Once I thought, Wow, it would be great to have a yoga teacher that should come at 6 o'clock to 7. Well, she came one time and no more, but I have the mattress.

答：所有我不想看到的东西：文件、巧克力（纯可可豆做成的，不含糖）、烛台，可能还有我随处找到的旧草图，照片，地毯，一张瑜伽垫。有一次我想，哇，要是6点至7点能有个瑜伽教练来教我该多好啊。呃，她来过一次，然后再也没来过，但我因此有了这个瑜伽垫。

Q. Do you keep the books in the closets?

问：你把那些书保存在橱柜里吗？

No. At the end of the season, three or four days before the show, I give the book as a present to someone who was important for me during the last month and a half. And I tell them, "This is, maybe, one of the most difficult presents I give, because it's part of me, part of my life." I have to do that in order to start all over again. I give it with a bit of a tear in my eye, but it's not a tear that comes out, it's a tear that stays in. And I always say, "If I need it back, I'll come and ask for it." And they say, "O.K., we'll just keep it for you." And they do. And then I start a new book.

答：不。每一季结束时，也就是在时装秀之前三四天，我把那个本子作为礼物送给在过去一个半月里对我很重要的某个人。我告诉他们，“这也许是我最难送出的礼物，因为它是我的一部分，是我生命的一部分。”我必须这么做，以便从头重新开始。我送出去时，眼里有一滴泪，但那滴泪不会掉下来，它就在眼睛里。我总是说，“如果需要的话，我会来要走它。”他们说，“好的，我们帮你保存它。”他们帮我保存。然后我开始做一个新的本子。