浪漫之都布拉格 沉醉在无关爱情的狂想中

Clockwise from top left: preparing a drink at Anonymous Bar; a scene in the Zizkov district, where new art galleries have opened in recent years; T-Anker bar; Pour Pour; a dish at George Prime Steak
顺时针左上角开始：匿名者酒吧调酒；济之科夫区一景，那里坐落着近年开馆的美术馆；T-安克酒吧；布尔布尔服饰小店；乔治顶级牛排店。

For people who haven't traveled to Prague recently, the Czech capital might seem like a known quantity: a city with a thousand years of architecture, cheap beer and often boring restaurants where the most unusual ingredients are the doughy dumplings. But Prague is developing so quickly that many locals still haven't heard of all the next big things: flashy new art galleries, dynamically developing old neighborhoods, great bars - beyond and including beer - and new restaurants with flavorful offerings from classic steaks and chops to Asian spice. In fact, so many new developments have appeared in Prague that you could spend an entire weekend visiting only those places that have opened in the past couple of years. See Prague Castle, Charles Bridge and all the other classic attractions. But finish out your stay with some of the vibrant newcomers.

对于近期没有到访布拉格的人来说，这座捷克的都城似乎还是旧日熟悉的风貌： 千年的古建筑，廉价的啤酒，还有把面团饺子当宝贝的千篇一律的餐馆。但布拉格正在如此快速地发展，以至于很多变化对于当地人来说都还是新鲜事：美轮美奂的美术馆，多元化发展的居民区，一流的酒吧---所提供的酒水中虽然包括，但也绝不仅限于啤酒---还有饭菜可口的新式餐馆， 提供的食物从经典牛排、排骨到亚洲香料，应有尽有。事实上，布拉格新变化如此繁多，即便只到访近年开放的地方，可能就要花去你整个周末。布拉格城堡、查理士桥和其他古典名胜自然是必去之处，但旅行结束前也要记得到访几个充满朝气的新去处。
1. Clean Up | 5 p.m.
1. 全面整顿| 5 p.m.
Buildings - and residents - in Old Town have cleaned up nicely of late. In the once-decrepit Palac Dlouha, an Art Deco landmark, the new ground-floor shopping arcade includes Sisters, an airy bistro with gourmet open-faced sandwiches (25 to 49 koruna, or $1.25 to $2.50, at 19.50 korunas to the dollar) that make perfect late-afternoon snacks. A block away, two-year-old Eterno Moderno offers vintage and new fashions, mostly for women, some made out of recycled fabric; across the street, Kuraz stocks clothing and accessories from a variety of young Czech designers, like knee-high stockings printed with insects, revolvers and other unusual patterns. Even gentlemen are getting in on the act: Across Wenceslas Square, the Room has been selling men's wear from artsy Northern European brands like Denmark's Libertine-Libertine and Royal Republiq for the past two years. And just around the corner, Thomas's Barber Shop offers a Scotch, cigar, hand-wrap, haircut and straight-razor shave package that costs 1,600 koruna.

古城里的建筑物，包括居民区，都是新近整顿过的。曾经老旧的装饰艺术地标杜哈宫一楼新建了购物拱廊，其中一家"姐妹"小酒馆在售卖美味的单片三明治（25到49克朗，或者是1.25到2.50美元， 19.50克朗等于1美元），这是午后最完美的小食。一个街区之外，两年前开张的"埃尔泰诺 摩登"（Eterno Moderno）提供古典和最新的潮流服饰，大多是女装，有的产品用可循环面料制成的。在街对面，"库哈兹"（Kuraz）存有各式各样的衣衫和配饰，来自捷克年轻的设计师们，比如印有昆虫图案、左轮手枪或是其他别致图案的及膝长袜。即使是各位绅士，也能找到他们的一席之地：温塞斯拉斯广场另一边的"空间"（Room）正在售卖艺术气质十足的北欧品牌男装，比如丹麦近两年的潮牌的波普印花（Libertine-Libertine）和Royal Republiq。而就在角落的那边，汤姆斯理发店提供苏格兰威士忌、雪茄、包手、理发和刮胡一条龙服务，只要1600克朗。

2. Opulent Oligarchy | 7 p.m.
2. 奢华寡头| 7 p.m.
Like many European cities, Prague has gone crazy for fancy hamburgers, and there's nothing quite like the "oligarch burger" at the eight-month-old George Prime Steak: a juicy patty of imported aged American wagyu with foie gras, black truffle aioli, Brillat-Savarin cheese and - of course! - ribbons of 24-karat gold, creating a juicy, smoky explosion of savory flavors that is safely served only in the bar (990 koruna). The burger gets the most attention, but the real draws at this sleek chophouse are the rib-eyes, filets mignons and strip steaks, including a 34-ounce porterhouse for two (1,950 koruna), all sourced from the United States. There is also a line of rare American whiskeys that arguably stops at a 22-year-old rye from Hirsch Selection (550 koruna), since the rarest name on the list, 23-year-old Van Winkle bourbon, is usually sold out. Clearly, some oligarchs have good taste. Dinner for two without wine, 2,500 to 4,000 koruna.

正如许多欧洲的城市一样，布拉格着迷于各类花式汉堡。而再没有什么能像8个月前开张的乔治高级牛排店的 "寡头汉堡"一样了：在鲜美多汁的肉饼里包含了进口的成熟的美国和牛肉、鹅肝、黑色松露蒜泥蛋黄酱，萨伐仑松饼，还有---当然----24克拉金色装饰带，带给你一种多汁的、烟熏味的味觉体验。酒吧提供，放心食用（990克朗）。汉堡已是倍受瞩目，但这家小酒馆真正的看点其实是肉眼牛排，牛里脊和纽约客牛排，包括34盎司的两人份大脊骨牛排 （1950克朗），所有原材料来自美国。他们有一条关于美国稀有威士忌的规定，那就是只用酿造了22年的赫西典藏系列黑麦酒（550克朗）。而酒单上最稀有的一种--酿造23年凡·温克尔波旁威士忌则总是销售一空。很明显，有钱人总是能尝到好滋味。一顿双人晚餐，无酒，2500到4000克朗。

3. Cure Thyself | 10:30 p.m.
3. 自我治愈| 10:30 p.m.
A few of the movers and (literal) shakers in London's cocktail scene are Czech bar owners and bartenders, several of whom have recently returned to mix up concoctions in Prague. The best newcomer is Bonvivant's, a small speakeasy in Old Town that opened this past winter, serving drinks prepared with their own house-made flavorings, including rose-hip-and-hibiscus bitters (cocktails, around 150 koruna). After a highball, wander the cobblestone streets until you stumble across the two-year-old Anonymous Bar, which takes its design inspiration from "V for Vendetta" and offers similarly theatrical drinks, like the St. Marry's Virus cocktail (175 koruna), served from a giant syringe.

伦敦调制鸡尾酒的场景总是左摇摇右晃晃，捷克酒吧老板和调酒师差不多也这样。他们中的一些人近期回到了布拉格调制鸡尾酒。波为安酒吧（Bonvivant's）是个极好的新去处，一个古城里小小的地下酒吧，上个冬天开张，提供多种自家风味的饮品，其中就有略苦的"蔷薇果配芙蓉花"（鸡尾酒，约150 克朗）。一杯冰镇威士忌之后，漫步在鹅卵石道路上，直至你蹒跚着走过匿名者酒吧。这家酒吧开业两年，灵感来自于"V字仇杀队"，相应地也提供各种颇具戏剧色彩的饮品，比如那款用大型注射剂为你斟满的"圣玛丽娅病毒"鸡尾酒（175克朗）。

4. High Grade | 10 a.m.
4. 优等货
Don't settle for hotel coffee. For years, high-grade arabica was hard to find in Prague, though that changed with the arrival of a few quality cafes and artisanal roasting houses. In tourist-friendly Old Town, however, a big gap remained. The newest arrival, Original Coffee, opened earlier this year, close to the church of Jan Hus at Betlemske Namesti. Afterword, burn off that caffeine energy with a morning constitutional. Although the neighborhood is home to many tourist attractions, Saturday mornings often have fewer crowds, and tiny, little-used streets like nearby Zlata and Stribrna offer plenty of beautiful photo opportunities.

绝不要满足于酒店的咖啡。多年来，布拉格内都很难找到优等的阿拉伯咖啡，虽然随着一些高档咖啡馆和手工艺烘焙坊的到来，这种情况有所缓解。然而在好客的古镇，咖啡质量还是良莠不齐。最新的租客"纯品咖啡"今年年初开张，毗邻伯利恒广场的扬·胡斯的教堂。品味过后，以一个悠闲的晨间散步燃掉那些咖啡因带来的热量吧。虽然街区是观光点密集地，周六早晨通常游客稀少，在扎拉塔和斯卓布纳附近少有人走过的小街上，常常有机会拍出漂亮的照片。

5. Pair Thee Well | Noon
5. 成双成对| 中午
Yes, Prague is a beer town, but quality wine is more and more common, especially at meals. The vanguard of the city's wine culture is Vinograf, a year-old wine bar and restaurant at Senovazne Namesti, which serves well-selected Czech wines, mostly from the sunny regions of South Moravia, alongside imports from Austria, France, Italy, Hungary and elsewhere. The menu features Mediterranean and Continental recipes - think of roast pork tenderloin with paprika sauce - that pair well with the 650 or so available bottles. Lunch for two without wine, about 1,000 koruna.

没错，布拉格是一个啤酒城，但是优质的酒水也越来越普遍，特别是一日三餐开饭的时候。本城酒文化的先驱要数"维农哈弗"（Vinograf），它是塞侬瓦纳广场开张一年的酒吧，提供精选的捷克葡萄酒，大多数来自于南摩拉维亚阳光普照的地区，也有的从奥地利、法国、意大利、匈牙利和其他地方进口。菜式以地中海和欧式风味为主---想想撒上辣椒酱的猪肉里脊---和那瓶你能享受到得约650克朗的酒真是天生一对。两人份的午餐，无酒，大约1000克朗。

6. Side Streets| 2 p.m.
6. 小街小巷| 2 p.m.
The grungy Zizkov district has developed its colorful cultural life even more in recent years, with a handful of new art galleries north of Skroupovo Namesti. Start out at the two-year-old Drdova Gallery, whose current exhibition includes work from Jiri Thyn, Federico Diaz and Hynek Alt. Two blocks from there you'll find Hunt Kastner Artworks, which moved to Zizkov one year ago, down the block from the City Surfer Office, a gallery and exhibition space run by a collective that also has its own record label. On nearby side streets visit the unusual Bliss Farm Gallery, which turns antique photos into horror-inspired works of art, and 35m2, a tiny exhibition space behind Café Pavlac, where you can finally stop for refreshments.

曾经老旧的济之科夫区近几年大力发展了丰富多彩的文化生活，一系列新的艺术博物馆坐落在北思科洛浦广场。从开关两年的迪哈朵维美术馆开始，你可以看到包括 Jiri Thyn, Federico Diaz 和Hynek Alt 几个艺术家近期展览。两个街区远的地方你可以看到亨特卡斯特纳艺术品展览，这是一年前搬到济之科夫去的。从城市冲浪者办公室往下的那个街区，一个有着自己唱片品牌的公司正在开放一个美术馆和一个展览会。在附近的小街区能参观到另类的幸福农场画廊，他们将老照片变成惊悚的艺术作品。还有35m2，位于帕弗拉克咖啡馆（Café Pavlac）背后的小展区。在那里的咖啡馆里你终于可以稍作休息、享受茶点。

7. Vintage Designs | 4 p.m.
7.古典设计| 4 p.m.
Fashion in Zizkov and Vinohrady usually means street wear and retro style. During the week, you can sift through Bohemian Retro's impressive collection of men's and women's vintage clothing, mostly from the former Czechoslovakia; the shop is generally closed on weekends, so call to check. A decent alternative on a Saturday afternoon: Prague Thrift Store, a less-curated collection of leather trench coats, blazers and even secondhand books. For ladies' street wear from Czech designers, try Pour Pour, which stocks decorated acrylic bracelets (390 koruna) and leather backpacks (2,500 koruna), as well as tutu-inspired skirts and dresses.

时尚在济之科夫和维诺哈迪通常意味着老旧复古的风格。平日里你可以在"复古波西米亚"（Bohemian Retro）挑选让人一见难忘的男士或女士古典服饰，它们中的大多数都是前捷克斯洛伐克时期留下来的。这家店面周末通常都会关门，所以去之前先打个电话问问吧。另一个周六午后好去处：布拉格节俭商店。一些不完整的收集，比如皮风衣，运动夹克甚至是二手书。如果要找出自捷克设计师之手的街头服饰，就去"布尔布尔"（Pour Pour）看看吧，他们存有精心装饰的有机玻璃手镯（390克朗）和皮制双肩背包（2500克朗），也有灵感源于芭蕾舞裙的短裙和连衣裙。

8. Liberal Arts | 5 p.m.

8.自由艺术

Many interesting new developments in the city's northern districts of Holesovice and Bubenec fly under the radar. Start out at the excellent two-year-old Kavarna Liberal, an old-school coffeehouse with high ceilings, refreshing spirits and free Wi-Fi, where you can ask the friendly locals for tips. Down the street, check to see if the four-month-old Galerie Zari, an unusual exhibition space, is open on weekends, as the schedule has recently changed; the neighboring Galerie Zari should be open on Saturdays later this spring.

霍莱斯索维和布本尼克北部区域许多绕有趣味的新变化，都是不知不觉中发生的。从两年前开张的出色的 "自由卡瓦纳尔"（Kavarna Liberal）说起，这个旧式咖啡屋有着高高的天花板，提神的烈酒和免费无线上网服务，在那里你向友善的当地人询问一些旅行小贴士。沿着街道往下走，查看一下刚四个月前开张的"扎日画馆"（Galerie Zari） 是否在周末开馆，这是一个别致的展览区，不过开馆时间不久前有变动。扎日画馆应是从这个春末开始，每周六开放。

9. Curry Favor | 7 p.m.

9咖喱味

Many of the old favorites in Old Town have changed names, owners and cooks repeatedly. Once called Molly Malone's, the pub on U Obecniho Dvora street is now known as the James Joyce: although the pints of O'Hara's stout make a nice change from Prague's ubiquitous pilsners, the ace card here is the pub's new list of spicy curries. The menu comes from the in-house Sexy Curry Company, which offers jalfrezi, Cape Malay and Thai green curries prepared by Sofia Smith, the chef responsible for several of Prague's best-loved restaurants. Dinner for two without wine, about 1,000 koruna.

古城里许多老店都多次改换了店名、店主和菜肴。一个在 欧贝妮·朵夫哈街曾被叫做 "莫利·马龙"（Molly Malone's）的店现在更名叫"詹姆斯·乔伊斯"（James Joyce）：即便大量的欧哈拉黑啤（O'Hara）取代无处不在的比尔森啤酒虽然是一个好的改变，酒吧真正的招牌是一系列的辣味咖喱。菜单来自室内的热辣咖喱公司，他们提供印度羊肉咖喱加尔弗兹（Jalfrezi），科普马来菜肴还有泰国绿咖喱，都由索菲亚·史密斯烹饪，她是布拉格几个最令人喜爱的餐馆的主厨。两人份的晚餐，无酒，大概1000克朗。

10. Tap Race | 9 p.m.

10.布拉格啤酒啤酒

Prague's reputation for great beer is well deserved. The front-runner, Zly Casy, in the south-central Prague district of Nusle, has led the craft beer tap race for years (it now has 48), but last year the pub got yet another expansion, and a new grill menu. Other neighborhood pubs include the excellent U Vodoucha in Zizkov, serving Bohemian cuisine and beers mostly from regional brewers. And in the very center of Prague, the stylish, year-old T-Anker bar atop the Kotva department store offers Czech, German and Belgian craft brews on a rooftop terrace.

布拉格啤酒啤酒的好名声真是名至实归。位于布拉格中南部的努斯莱区的 "兹尔·卡西"（Zly Casy）是竞争中的领跑者，在手工啤酒这方面已经领先数年（到现在是48年）。但是上一年小酒馆又一次扩建，并且曾加了新的烧烤菜式。包括济之科夫出色的 "U 乌都查"（U Vodoucha ）在内的其它酒馆提供波西米亚菜式和当地酿酒师酿造的啤酒。在布拉格中心，时髦的刚开张一年的 "T- 安克"（T-Anker）是科塔瓦区最好的酒吧，它们在屋顶的露台上提供捷克、德国和比利时的手工酿品。

11. Contemporary Comfort | 10 a.m.

11.暂歇息

Even the formerly run-down 28 Rijna street has blossomed, welcoming several new shops, including a branch of Harmont & Blaine, an Italian producer of upscale casual wear. The stunner, however, is a new outpost of Julius Meinl, the delicatessen in Vienna that opened its three-story food emporium and restaurant here last winter. Even if you don't feel like buying a whole Mediterranean octopus or one of the 450 kinds of cheese, the renovated Secessionist building is a must-see. Afterward, recover two doors down with a bowl of contemporary comfort food: hearty tonkotsu ramen (240 koruna), filled with pork, seaweed and soft-boiled eggs, at the two-month-old Kitchen Ramen Bar. You can have dumplings some other time.

连原来逐渐衰败的28里那街也开始繁荣起来了，开了一些新的铺子，包括 意大利顶级休闲品牌"小黄狗"(Harmont & Blaine)。然而最妙的第一咖啡品牌"朱丽亚·麦诺 "（Julius Meinl）的新店和上个冬天刚刚开张的一个三层食品商场及餐馆。即便你不想整只地中海章鱼或者是450余种奶酪中的一种，刚翻新的分离主义建筑可是一个必游之地。过后，在两个月前开张的厨房拉面吧（Kitchen Ramen Bar）以一碗现代可口的食物来恢复你的精力：一碗丰盛的豚骨拉面（240克朗）里有猪肉、海带和半熟的鸡蛋。你可以另找时间来品尝捷克饺子。