时装设计师跨界手工艺品 Makers marks
It’s perhaps no surprise the slow folk arts of former generations are returning to fashion just as the revolutions of the industry spin ever faster. From Erdem’s pastoral embroideries to the exquisite weaves at Alexander McQueen, which designer Sarah Burton called “artefacts of the hand”, many of the spring collections are a paean to vanishing craft techniques. The handmade effect is being felt off the catwalk, too, as a clutch of designers are now offering handmade homeware to complement their clothes.
时尚行业的变化一日千里，昔日不受待见的民间手艺重新风靡也许就不足为奇了。从埃德姆(Erdem)田园风格的刺绣装到设计师萨拉•伯顿(Sarah Burton)称为“手工精品”的亚历山大•麦奎(Alexander McQueen)高档针织毛衣，很多2106春季时装都是“缅怀”消失已久的手工技法。如今随着一些设计师开始推出手工打造的家居用品（与设计的时装珠联璧合），手工打造的影响力已显现于T型台之外。
For these designers, the artisanal approach enriches their creative process. The paper-cut collage and oil paintings that São Paulo shoe designer Lane Marinho produces are an intrinsic step in the creation of her decorative, hand-stitched sandals. “It’s all a form of self-expression,” she says. “It’s about creating a harmony of colours and objects that helps put the finished product into context. I know I’m only making sandals but this is also about the way I choose to live — and taking the time to pay attention to the details.”
对于这些设计师来说，设计手工艺品丰富了其创意过程。巴西圣保罗鞋履设计师莱恩•马里尼奥(Lane Marinho)创作的剪纸拼贴与油画图案是设计装饰主义的手工缝制凉鞋的关键。“这完全是一种自我表现形式，”她说，“它努力实现了颜色与物件的和谐统一，让成品承前启后。我清楚自己只是设计凉鞋，但这又表现了自己选择的生活方式——而且不厌其烦打造细节。”
Arthur Yates of Bruta, the emerging London line whose casual shirting is sold at Liberty, creates hand-painted ceramic urns in conjunction with his collections. For Yates, it’s a chance to indulge his creativity, unbridled by the practical and physical constraints of clothing. But the pots are also a clever point of difference. As Yates puts it: “It’s a nice balance between a commercial product that nods to the traditional craft skill of embroidery and the fun and frivolity of decorative pots.”
Bruta是伦敦异军突起的时尚品牌，其休闲衬衣系列在Liberty百货销售。Bruta的设计师阿瑟•叶芝(Arthur Yates)配合其时装系列推出了手绘陶缸。对于叶芝来说，这是摆脱时装外形与功用设计的种种局限、肆意发挥自己创意才华的好机会；但设计陶瓷容器也是显现自己与众不同的高招。正如叶芝说：“这应合了传统装饰工艺的商品与装饰性容器的愉悦感，真可谓两全其美。”
This multidisciplinary method is a throwback to a Modernist era when the lines between decorative art and fashion were more blurred. Artists such as Sonia Delaunay thought nothing of stitching an evening gown one moment then painting furniture and canvases the next. “It was a time when clothing and art and furniture design were all participating in a dialogue with one another,” says jewellery designer Sophie Buhai, whose online store sells decorative objets she curates and designs. “Designing jewellery is one step away from fashion,” she says. “The art and design pieces create a frame of reference for my own work that goes beyond seasonal trends.”
这种跨界做法回归到现代主义风格盛行的时代，当时装饰艺术与时尚之间的界限模糊不清。索尼亚•德劳内(Sonia Delaunay)等艺术家对一会儿手工缝制晚礼服、一会儿又在家具与画布上作画并不以为然。“当时的时代，时装与艺术及家具设计都是互通有无、互为影响。”珠宝设计师索菲•布哈(Sophie Buhai)说。她的网店销售她自己构思设计的装饰艺术品。“我设计珠宝首饰就走出了第一步，与时装抗衡。”她说，“艺术及设计物件给我的时装设计提供了超越流行时尚季的参照物。”
At , customers will soon be able to invest in the luxurious textiles of New York knitwear brand Tabula Rasa which are used on everything from kaftans to wallcoverings. It’s the first time will sell interiors alongside a ready-to-wear collection. “Though small, the homeware allows the customer to buy into the lifestyle element, which will appeal to a woman who wears the clothing but appreciates the craftsmanship,” says Natalie Kingham, buying director at the online retailer. Could this be a sign of a wider creative shift? “We’re seeing more crafty designers and collections coming through. Pieces with a unique point of view are really resonating with customers.”
在网店，消费者很快能买到纽约针织品牌Tabula Rasa推出的奢侈款纺织品，它们可用于土耳其式长衫至壁纸的各种东西，可谓五花八门。这是网店首次把室内用品与主打产品成衣同时销售。“尽管数量不多，但家居用品可让消费者买到生活元素，让喜欢时装但又青睐手工技法的女性痴迷不已。”网店采购部负责人娜塔莉•金厄姆(Natalie Kingham)说。此举是否是创意风向大变的标志？“我们看到手工精品与时装系列源源不断面世。独特时尚风格的物件真得让消费者爱不释手。”
If there’s one designer who has cemented craft’s new desirability, it’s Alessandro Michele. Hand processes have been at the heart of his Gucci renaissance, and his wild hair and eclectic vision lend him the air of a modern-day William Morris. Michele is an avid ceramics collector, a passion he indulges as the creative director of Richard Ginori, the historic Italian porcelain brand that Gucci saved from bankruptcy in 2013. Now, fans of his artisan aesthetic can replicate the chinoiserie on the catwalk with his hand-painted oriental ceramics.
哪位设计师让手工技艺重新风靡，并且更加深入人心？非亚历桑德罗•米歇尔(Alessandro Michele)莫属！古驰(Gucci)重现辉煌，手工打造功不可没，而米歇尔的一头蓬发与兼容并蓄的理念，使他俨然成了现代版的威廉•莫里斯(William Morris)。米歇尔是狂热的陶瓷藏家，在他担任理查德•基诺里公司(Richard Ginori)创意总监时，他就沉溺于此。理查德•基诺里是历史悠久的意大利瓷器品牌，正是古驰2013年出手相救，才使它免于破产。如今，其手工技艺之拥趸用他手绘的东方风格陶瓷作品，可原样重现其T型台上的中国艺术风。
If, as Michele believes, craft is a testament to human uniqueness, then buying into individuality has never been more enticing.
如果手工艺品是证明人类独创性的标志（米歇尔坚信），那么拥趸购买这种个性十足的艺术品就会一发而不可收。
Lane Marinho
Lane Marinho
The designer Lane Marinho founded her eponymous sandal line in 2013, after quitting her job at a Brazilian shoe company. “I realised I’d moved too far away from the handicrafts I grew up with,” says Marinho, whose Bahian relatives taught her crochet and embroidery at a young age. Marinho’s sandals, which she hand-decorates in a jamboree of patchworks and seashells, often take their cue from the silhouettes of São Paulo’s Modernist architecture. Her Instagram feed is a mood board for the still-life compositions and Matisse-style collages that form the bedrock of her design process. Her soaring fan base includes style superblogger Man Repeller.
设计师莱恩•马里尼奥从巴西某鞋厂辞职后，于2013年创建了这个同名凉鞋品牌。“我当时就意识到自己已经与从小熟悉的手工技艺渐行渐远。”马里尼奥说，在她小的时候，巴伊亚州(Bahia)的亲朋好友就曾教她钩针编织与刺绣技艺。马里尼奥用拼布与贝壳手工打造狂欢活动的场面，其灵感通常来自圣保罗现代主义风格的建筑外形。她在Instagram上的Feed网页是由静物组合体与马蒂斯(Matisse)风格的抽象拼贴画组成的情绪板，它们是她创作的基础。她不断飚升的粉丝群中就包括了知名时尚博客The Man Repeller。
Dora-Mar sandal, with rope and natural shell, $600, by request;
点缀天然贝壳的Dora-Mar绳编凉鞋售价600美元，详情请浏览以下网址：。
Sophie Buhai
Sophie Buhai
“They can look as good on a coffee table as they do on the body,” says Sophie Buhai of her sculptural silver jewels, which start life in the garden studio of her Spanish-style 1930s LA home. Buhai’s eponymous brand offers these accessories alongside artefacts and objet trouvé, from marble eggs to ikebana Japanese flower-arranging vases. It’s easy to imagine her blocky Hepworth bangle (and matching wooden totem) on display in the late sculptor’s Hampstead studio. For SS16, Buhai applies her bold, sparing style to cuffs, pendants and earrings in collaboration with the French design house Lemaire.
“它们搁在咖啡桌上与佩戴效果一样棒。”索菲•布哈这样评论自己手工雕刻的银首饰。它们在她位于洛杉矶、建于上世纪30年代的西班牙风格寓所的花园工作室创作完成。布哈的同名品牌除上述配饰外，还包括从大理石蛋到日式插花用的花瓶的各式手工与天然工艺品。在已故雕塑家赫普沃思位于汉普斯特德(Hampstead)的工作室展出其设计的赫普沃思斑驳款手镯（与木质图腾相搭配），也十分自然契合。在她的2016年春夏季时装中，布哈与法国时尚品牌Lemaire合作，用艳丽保守的风格设计护腕、吊坠与耳环。
Hepworth bangle, ￡497, with Ball ring, ￡276;
布哈设计的Hepworth手镯售价497英镑，其设计的Ball戒指售价276英镑，详情请浏览以下网站：。
Tabula Rasa
Tabula Rasa
“Yarns are like my pencil,” says textile designer Emily Diamandis, a passionate traveller who launched her line of luxurious and experimental knitwear Tabula Rasa with the idea of styling your space, wherever you are. Every collection is a medley of handcrafted techniques from crochet to macramé, with yarns sourced from across the world. “I’m at my most playful when I’m inventing and stitching swatches of fabric,” explains Diamandis. “Once they’re complete I’ll decide their fate — whether that’s a cushion or a cardigan, a hoodie or a hammock.” Tabula Rasa’s tape-yarn evening dresses and heavy wool, hand-fringed cushions are sure to be a hit for SS16.
“纱线就如同我的铅笔。”织品设计师艾米丽•迪曼蒂斯(Emily Diamandis)说。酷爱旅游的她推出的奢侈类与实验性针织品牌Tabula Rasa，其用意是无论诸位身在何处，让你所处的空间永远时尚。她的纱线淘自世界各地，从钩针到花边，每个系列都是手工技艺的混搭。“我自创及缝制面料样品时，最妙趣横生。”迪曼蒂斯如此解释道。“每次完成后，我就决定其最终用途——是做成软垫还是羊毛衫、连帽衫还是吊床。”由带状纱做成的Tabula Rasa晚礼服与手工缝制花边的厚羊毛垫子肯定会成为2016年春夏季的抢手货。
Idris cushion, ￡565, Kokkola cushion, ￡565;
它推出的Idris垫子与Kokkola垫子售价均为565英镑，详情请浏览以下网站。
Bruta
Bruta
“I make shirts and paint pots,” says designer Arthur Yates of Bruta, the unisex brand he launched in London last year. For SS16, Yates pays homage to the South American gaucho, with embroidered and patchwork button-ups in lusciously mossy hues, with matching painterly pots. “I like the chaotic nature of offering one-off pieces,” says Yates of the rugged agricultural milk churns that sell for three times the price of the shirts. “I’m from big urban London, but I pay homage to craft and nature and ideas of paradise because I want the human touch to be felt on the clothes.”
“我设计衬衣以及在陶罐上创作。”Bruta的设计师阿瑟•迪芝说，他去年在伦敦推出这个男女通用品牌。对于2016年春夏时装季，他突出展现南美牧人的风格，用艺术罐与刺绣和拼接画打造的新鲜苔藓色系扣服装相搭配。“我喜欢率性地设计一次性工艺品。”他这样评价自己设计的结实耐用农用牛奶桶（其售价是所推衬衣的3倍）。“本人来自伦敦大都市，但我特别喜欢手工技艺以及大自然，对天堂观念情有独钟，原因是我希望人类的感受可以在时装上体现出来。”
Bruta Gauchos shirt, ￡120 (worn by male model) and Florista shirt, ￡150, from Liberty;
Liberty百货公司推出的Bruta Gauchos男式衬衣售价为120英镑，Florista衬衣售价为150英镑，详情请浏览以下网站：。
